Hello! Me and my girlfriend (Laura) are about to set off on a two week trip around the Indian Himalayas…specifically Ladakh in September 2018. This blog will be a day-by-day account of our adventure to ride the highest roads in the world by motorcycle. Our trusty steeds of choice will be none other than the famous Royal Enfield Bullet, riding anything else on these roads would be sacrilege.
Where is Ladakh, you ask. It’s a pocket within the northern Indian state of Jammu & Kashmir. The border sensitive region that backs onto both China and Pakistan where no one agrees on how exactly the red line should be drawn on the map. It was a lost corner of inaccessible mountainous terrain until the mid-20th century. But a series conflicts ranging to stand-offs to wars that have been fought by all three parties to present has in part helped to open Ladakh to the rest of the world. Stomach churning passes like the Zojila were built by the military as supply routes but now are also traversed by thrill seekers like us. But three jewels of Ladakh are what really draws the crowds. The Nubra Valley and two high altitude lakes Pangong Tso and Tso Moriri are stunning natural wonders that can only be appreciated with the naked eye.
It’s Thursday 6th September, Laura urged me to pack in advance which has paid off as there was still work to finish off in the office before our flight later that day at 7:30pm from London’s Heathrow Airport. While we have a rough plan of our journey around the region of Ladakh, we haven’t taken any chances and one of our four hold bags contains a full Alpine-rated camping setup! Like the Alps but twice as high, the Himalayas have notoriously unpredictable micro-climates. The mountain passes open in late spring after being blanketed with snow over a long cold winter but frequently close over the summer due to heavy rains or snow. Both the Manali-Leh Highway and Leh-Srinagar Highway opened in early April this year but were closed to heavy snowfall until May when the riding reason starts in earnest. After all, this the land of the Karakoram Range and home to K2 the world’s second highest peak at a lofty 8,611 meters (28,251 ft).
We’re travelling in September as the effects of the monsoon which started in late June should be less pronounced. Nights will be much cooler, sometimes as low as freezing at high altitude lakes sitting at nearly 5,000 meters. Although approaching the end of season, there should be a greater chance of pristine blue skied along with a less road traffic. Any worries of items left at home must be discarded as the aircraft doors are locked, set to automatic and cross-checked. Despite England having had one of the warmest summers on record the skies look decidedly dreary on our departure. Rain is also forecast at our starting point in the town of Manali which lies in the foothills of the Himalayas. Despite the best efforts of the India’s Border Roads Organisation (BRO), it’s no match to natures unstoppable power and our routing may be affected without warning.
Having read up as to what cuisine (or lack of) to expect on the remote Himalayan roads, we’re indulging ourselves on-board with smoked salmon, Guinea fowl along with cheese and port…something I’ll regret later. We’re both looking forward to sampling our first ‘Maggi’ and instant noodle preparation that is common at the roadside cafes. It’s been 10 years since I last visited India and Laura’s first time. India almost indistinguishable from the place it was 20 years ago. It’s a fast growing emerging market where a growing middle-class can fulfill their aspirations with their new found wealth. They are part of the reason why Ladakh is becoming ever busier each year with tourism despite its history.
Outside at 40,000 feet a lightning storm is raging over the Black Sea as we snuggle into our beds for the remainder of the flight. Although excited, I’m also apprehensive about this trip. Local newspapers report on vehicles that have tumbled down cliffs and landslides that trap travelers overnight at altitudes of over 4,000 meters. We are unsure as to what communication will be available, the government blocks all foreign phones connecting to the local network. Help as assistance is not as readily available as we’d like.
Tomorrow it all begins! Click here to read Day 1 as we get ready to head to Manali!
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